NECK
Place tape around base of neck (below adams apple). Measure neck snug, but not tight, then release tape 1/2″ for ease. Do NOT make any allowances for shrinkage.
CHEST (Measure over nipples, under arm and across back)
Place tape measure around the fullest part of the chest, high up under the arm and over the shoulder blades. Customer’s arms should be at their side in a relaxed stance. NO posturing, as this will affect sloping on shoulders as well as the true measure.
Note the actual skin measurement in the box marked “Chest” on the order from to the left of the plus (+) sign.
The preferred fit or allowance over skin is determined by the number of additional inches of fabric (the allowance) added to the actual skin measurement. if you desire finished measurement enter “F” in the box to right of the plus (+) sign.
Example: a 42+8 in the chest box means the customer has an actual skin measurement of 42″ and desire a full cut of +8. The finished shirt will measure 50″ at the chest.
ADDITIONAL CHEST INFORMATIONS
- The skin measurement should be noted in full inch increments, not 1/2 inches. Round up the nearest inch.
- Keep in mind that shirts can be trimmed down to make chest smaller, but a new body must be cut to make larger. Always up size if in a pinch.
- You can adjust the fit on a recorder by changing the allowance. Do not change the actual skin measurement unless client gained or lost weight and inches.
WAIST (MEASURE ACROSS THE FULLEST PART OF THE WAIST, TYPICALLY THE BELLY BUTTON)
The shirtwaist is right about where the belly button is – approximately 9″ below the armhole, and is the point where the shirt is most tapered.
It is helpful to note the customer’s height and weight in the appropriate box on the order form. The customers height may influence the waistline position to be lowered (for tall) or raised (for short) on their respective patterns.
Remember that when seated, the waistline and midsection will expand the measure larger than when the customer is standing.
HIP (MEASURED APPROXIMATELY 2-3" ABOVE WHERE THE SHIRT TAIL ENDS. ACROSS THE BACK POCKET SEAMS)
The shirtwaist is right about where the belly button is – approximately 9″ below the armhole, and is the point where the shirt is most tapered.
It is helpful to note the customer’s height and weight in the appropriate box on the order form. The customers height may influence the waistline position to be lowered (for tall) or raised (for short) on their respective patterns.
Remember that when seated, the waistline and midsection will expand the measure larger than when the customer is standing.
OVERARM
Have customer assume relaxed stance with arm by their side, place tape at same location as for chest measure, but measure over arms.
TAIL LENGTH
The tail is measured vertically down the front of the shirt. Place tape measure under the collar leaf, where the front panel, yoke and collar band intersect. Measure desire length.
YOKE
The yoke is measured from the outside seam, where the yoke join the sleeves, across the top of the shoulders (below the collar) to the opposite side. The yoke should fit comfortably on the outside edge of shoulders. The tape should not drop below the prominent neck bone.
Your eye is the truest when determine the yoke size. Observe and measure the yoke of the dress shirt the customer is wearing, if it looks right, write the size in the yoke box on the order form. If it looks too small or narrow, increase by 1/4″ increments to desired fit. If it looks too large or big, (draping off the clients shoulders), decrease by 1/2″ increments. Yokes are made with 1/4″ additional allowance for shrinkage.
SLEEVE LENGTH
Measuring from center back; use the base of prominent neck bone as guide. Customer’s arms should be at their sides, with hands balled into fists. Extend tape down the outside of arm to pinkie knuckle. Subtract 1.5 to 2 inches depending on customer’s preference. Do NOT make allowances for shrinkage.
Sleeves are made with 3/4″ additional allowance for shrinkage measuring from center back.
HALF SLEEVES
Measuring from center back; use the base of prominent neck bone as guide. Customer’s arms should be at their sides and folded 90 degrees at the elbow. Measure to the point where the half sleeve should finish usually 2-3″ up from the elbow. Length of half sleeves is a matter of personal preference.
WRIST / CUFF
Have customer ball hands into first and measure around the wrist and over the wrist bone to the nearest 1/4″. Add 3″ to the measurement for shrinkage allowance.
if the client wears an extra-large or think sized watch, simply add 1/2″ to the cuff and order separate sized cuffs (right and left). Do not measure over the watch.
There should be no difference in size for French or Button cuff styles.
The cuff size ordered is the actual, horizontal measurement across the cuff, from outside edge to outside edge. cuffs are to be ordered in 1/4″ increment.